Champaner/Pavagadh

Not much is known about the early history of this region, however, it starts taking definite shape after the establishment of Champaner, in the foothill of Pavagadh, as the capital of Chauhan kingdom at the close of the eighth centuty. The inscription found at Dohad has established that the Chalukya king Siddharaja Jayasimha subjugated the Bhils on his way to Malwa before inflicting defeat on the Malwa ruler. Siddharaja is renowned as Barbaraka-jisnu, which means the victor of Barbaraka, evidently the chief of a Barbarian tribe, inhabiting this region. Nothing is known about the subsequent events but it is probable that chiefs of the various tribes of the region owed allegiance to Chalukyas of Anhilwad till the end of their dynasty in 1304 AD. Most of the rulers of Gujarat wanted to possess Champaner due to its strategic position. The most ferocious struggle for Champaner and Pavagadh ensured when Mahmud Begada engaged in a battle with Jayasingh Raval, popularly known as Patai Raval, the king of Champaner. It is said that guns came to be used for the first time in Gujarat in the siege of Pavagadh. An elaborate tunnel was constructed by the Sultan to clandestinely reach upto the base of the fort. At the same time the fort wall was breached and a bloody battle ensued. On 21st November 1484, after the siege of twenty months Pavagadh fell. Mahmud was now the undisputed master of Gujarat. 

Fancied by the climatic condition  of Champaner Mahmud transferred his capital to the new city. Great buildings were erected and 400ft. long and 30ft high fort-wall with exquisitely carved gates was built. Succeeding Sultans were to add to the wealth and prosperity of Champaner till the history repeated itself, this time with yet another Muslim invader, equally ferocious and skillful in military maneuverings but far more resourceful as he was the ruler of Delhi. Last of Ahmad Shahi rulers, Bahadur Shah incurred the wrath of Humayun by harboring several Afghan chiefs at his court who had engaged in the Battle of Panipat against Humayun. Enraged Humayun marched on to Champananer and laid siege on the fort. The siege lasted for four months and the breakthrough was achieved by Humayun with great 

personal courage as he alongwith three hundred of his chosen soldiers scaled the fort from a secret entry and surprised the defenders by attacking the rear. In August, 1535 Champaner fell. Immense treasure fell in the hands of Humayun, and the decline of Champaner was but a small city. Its status is summed up by Jehangir when he visited it in 1618 AD. During this time Aurangzeb was born at Dohad in the imperial camp. As the Mughal authority weakened in the wake of Aurangzeb's death, the Marathas staked their claim on Gujarat. Krishnaji, a General of Baji Rao I, was the first Maratha  to capture Pavagadh. The split between the Peshwa and his General resulted in yet another siege of Pavagadh in 1730 AD. The eminence of Champaner had already eclipsed due to growing clout of Ahmedabad, however, the internal struggle of the Peshwa and the Gaekwad stunted the economy of both the cities. A semblance os stability returned with the passing of control of the Panchmahals in the hands of the Scindhias.

Among the outstanding monuments of Champaner, Juma Masjid ranks first. Standing on 172 pillars, this magnificent mosque has minarets rising to 100ft. Its most attractive feature is to found three tiers of columns rising one above the other and supporting the central dome with beautifully carved balconies between the tiers. All the five gates are also remarkable for their architectural beauty.

Another fine mosque is Nagina Masjid, built of pure white stone and a gracious gateway. A beautifully proportioned arcade within has four columns on each side of a square beneath a central dome.

It is well-known as the strongest hill fortress of ancient Gujarat. The hill covers about 42kms in circumference. The distance from the foot of the hill to the Kalika Mata's temple on its highest peak is about 5kms. On top of the slope above the cliffs, there follows a fortification line, ending in a building known as Sat Mahal. Sat Mahal or seven storeyed palace of the Chauhan rulers which is partly in ruins has some architectural beauty. Not far from the Sat Mahal is the Sandanshah Gate where a steep passage protected by a wide projecting bastion leads through a fine gateway. The Sadanshah Gate is the finest Rajput military structure of Pavagadh. Among the other places worth visiting are the Makai Kothar or maize granaries, Navlakha Kothar or nine lakh granaries, the Maulia or the Muslim citadel on the top plateau, the palace of Khapra Zaveri, the Masjid in ruins near Machi the three tanks, namely, Dudhia, Chhasia and the Telia tanks.

Udan Khatola

An added attraction at the Pavagadh Hill is The ropeway or a cable-car system between Machi village and the final climb. It spans 700 meters or 300 meters of altitude. The baggage of only 5kgs is allowed in the cable-car.

Fairs and festivals are the celebration of life and the tribals do not lag behind when it comes to merry-making. Perhaps they have more reasons to indulge in the revelry, after the strenuous routine that they live while eking out their livelihood under the most difficult circumstances. Visitors can have a peep in the lives of these people by visiting their fairs renowned for gathering and celebrations on a massive scale in some of the lesser known regions of Sabarkantha, Banaskantha, Panchmahals and Dangs.